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The Road to Essaouira
In the town of Smimou, packs of stray dogs roamed the streets, avoiding blue taxis and donkeys hauling carts full of watermelons. The...


Place of Echoes
The word Tinouainane means "The Place of Echoes." This remote village, perched between the Anti-Atlas Mountains and the alluvial Sous...


Different Kinds of Cowboys
This autumn has been filled with cowboys and cowgirls of different sorts. Going from the overpowering noise of a NASCAR road course to a...


Books I Read on Planes - 2018
I take great care when choosing what book to bring on a trip. Oftentimes, the memory of the book becomes inseparable from the experience...


The Jewels of Sedona
While standing in the hotel lobby waiting for our hosts to arrive, I saw pamphlets advertising the vortexes in Sedona, Arizona. Ads for...


Cormac McCarthy in Old Town
The closest I ever got to the person who inspired me to write was in a mysterious antique shop in Old Town, Albuquerque. It was still...


The Grandmother of Marrakech
Taroudant is two cities: the new city beyond the wall, and the old city within. The tall, hole-studded rampart winds around the old...


Truth or Consequences
Riding into Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, was like landing on another planet. T or C is about two hours south of Albuquerque, beyond...
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